Ok what's going on with the Shield and apps? Apple and Netflix are doing something that messes with the audio stream.
I have a Fiio BTR3K connected to USB1.
Dolbly Audio Processing ON I get audio from HDMI and USB respectively from the output that I choose.
ONLY Netflix and Apple will play ATMOS. The rest will be 5.1. Both Headphone and AVR.
Conversely, if I turn Dolby Processing OFF, which it should be, I get ATMOS from all other apps, except Netflix and Apple (non-ATMOS for those two is fine).
If I play ATMOS from either of them the Shield goes coo-coo with Headphones/DAC. No volume and if I try and adjust it, the Shield tells me to use the original remote (there is none) and internal volume control ceases to work on that content.
It seems to me Netflix and Apple are manipulating the ATMOS stream in a non-Srandard format in some manner that the Shield doesn't like but don't know how to verify.
Tested through AVR Onkyo NR6100 (same I'm sure on my Denon since it's not an AVR issue) and via eARC Shield -> LG C1 -> AVR.
If you're wondering why I need the BTR3K USB DAC/AMP, I don't want constantly (every night) plug and unplug my cans from the AVR out of convenience and fear of wearing out the socket.
I have a Fiio BTR3K connected to USB1.
Dolbly Audio Processing ON I get audio from HDMI and USB respectively from the output that I choose.
ONLY Netflix and Apple will play ATMOS. The rest will be 5.1. Both Headphone and AVR.
Conversely, if I turn Dolby Processing OFF, which it should be, I get ATMOS from all other apps, except Netflix and Apple (non-ATMOS for those two is fine).
If I play ATMOS from either of them the Shield goes coo-coo with Headphones/DAC. No volume and if I try and adjust it, the Shield tells me to use the original remote (there is none) and internal volume control ceases to work on that content.
It seems to me Netflix and Apple are manipulating the ATMOS stream in a non-Srandard format in some manner that the Shield doesn't like but don't know how to verify.
Tested through AVR Onkyo NR6100 (same I'm sure on my Denon since it's not an AVR issue) and via eARC Shield -> LG C1 -> AVR.
If you're wondering why I need the BTR3K USB DAC/AMP, I don't want constantly (every night) plug and unplug my cans from the AVR out of convenience and fear of wearing out the socket.
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