Turbo charge is rejected by my Ford F150. Requires too much power. How turn off?

[Craig Claussen]

I remember seeing at one point or another a way to accept Turbo charge or something slower? Maybe it was after an update. I can't remember. Anyways I've searched for a while for an answer. No luck. My Ford F150 quit letting me use a usb connection to charge the phone after the last recent update back in late June.
My Ford digital display says the phone charge require too much power and tells me to unplug it. Maybe it damaged the power system on the Ford, I don't know. I tried using the 110 Volt plug in the truck and it wouldn't register as charging. I'd rather fix the droid first then go to my dealership and see if the Ford is at fault. Cause it could probably happen again if nothing is done about the turbo charge

Anyone know how to turn the Turbo charger to a slower setting.

I have a Moto Z Force. I think it's a 2017 model


Edit:

Thanks for the answers guys I'll try them out. I'm new here. Can't even find a reply button to respond back to you to thank you for the help

 

[Rukbat]

You can use a non-turbo-charger. The phone and the charger negotiate the power the charger supplies to the phone, which means the amount of power the charger draws from the truck. If the phone can take enough charge, the charger is drawing more power than the truck is set to supply from the normal accessory socket.

It's possible to wire a well-fused accessory socket to the truck's electrical system that will supply enough power to the turbo charger, but I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself. (Most aftermarket accessory sockets are made for a maximum of about 8 Amps at 12 Volts, and it looks as if you need more than that, so it's going to take a higher current socket and safe wiring - fusing only the hot lead, but at both ends, and taking the power from a point that can handle the drain.)

 

[Mooncatt]

To Craig, how exactly are you plugging in to the truck? Is there a factory installed USB outlet? Personally, I don't use those because they always seem to be the cheapest and lowest powered USB available.

When plugged into that USB port, did you try pulling the notification bar down to see if it gives you additional USB options, similar to when you tether to a computer?

When you tried the 110V plug in the truck, was this a factory equipped power inverter, or did you install your own? Have you verified the inverter works with other devices and that the 110V charger works in a regular wall socket?

Have you tried a different cable?

If the phone can take enough charge, the charger is drawing more power than the truck is set to supply from the normal accessory socket.

It's possible to wire a well-fused accessory socket to the truck's electrical system that will supply enough power to the turbo charger, but I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself. (Most aftermarket accessory sockets are made for a maximum of about 8 Amps at 12 Volts, and it looks as if you need more than that, so it's going to take a higher current socket and safe wiring - fusing only the hot lead, but at both ends, and taking the power from a point that can handle the drain.)

I think what you are suggesting is overkill, unless he doesn't have an accessory socket. For one, 10A sockets are the norm in factory equipped sockets, with 20A outlets becoming more common. I don't think I've even seen an aftermarket one rated less than 10A. But let's say we do have a hypothetical 8A outlet to plug a 12V charger into. That translates to a capacity of 96W for the accessory outlet, and no phone charger is going to come anywhere near that. QC3.0 and similar charging specs top out at about 18W, which translates to 1.5A @ 12V. Add in a little overhead to power the charger circuitry itself, and you're still well under that 8A rating.

 

[Craig Claussen]

Ahh there I found the reply button.
I'm just using a standard usb to usb c cable.
Use to work fine in the truck. Now it doesn't.
Thanks for the suggestions

 

[Craig Claussen]

I figured it out with trial and error. I tried another usb to usb c cable and it works just fine.
The first cable I had worked fine for months now it doesn't.
This is the one that I bought 6 months ago and now it doesn't work in my truck anymore. Even when the phone isn't connected to the USB c end, yet the USB is connected to the truck, I still get an error stating that the phone cable requires too much power to use it and that I have to unplug the cable.
Weird
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ag=hawk-future-20&ascsubtag=UUacUvbUpU6280535

 

[Mooncatt]

Which cable are you using? My guess is the truck has a USB A plug, right? I know when USB C first came out, there were some compatibility issues with lab A to USB C cables that prevented them from properly negotiating the charging rates between the phone and charger. That is almost a non-issue anymore now that things are more standardized, but if you are using an old or dirt cheap cable, that may be the problem. Why it only popped up after your phone updated is still a mystery.

 

[Craig Claussen]

I tried responding with what cable I used but it didn't get approved by the moderator I'm guessing.
Maybe because i posted the link?
Here is the cable without link
Myckuu™
Type C USB Cable 6ft Quick Charge 2.0 Extra Long Cord Braided Fast Charging for Moto Z Play Droid Force, Nextbit Robin, Nexus 6P 5X, ZTE Zmax Pro, Google Pixel 2, Samsung Galaxy S8 Charger Cable

Bought it back in January 2018

 

[Mooncatt]

I tried to do some digging, but couldn't find any info on Myckuu beyond their Amazon listings. In those, there was no mention of USB-IF certification or if it included a needed 56k ohm "pull up" resister, which is designed to protect chargers when high power devices are inadvertently connected. So for now, I'd say it's a wild card simply because I don't know if it's a compliant cable.

I use these, which do have the required resistor and they work fine in anything I've plugged my LG V20 into, including 500mA rated ports.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073...ag=hawk-future-20&ascsubtag=UUacUvbUpU6280556

USB cables are relatively inexpensive and I'm always needing extras or replacing worn out cables. If I were in your shoes, I'd buy something from a known brand that does have the 56k resistor and see if that helps. If nothing else, you'll have a good spare you can toss in a drawer.