Issues when plugging in headphones
- Thread starter Andrew Bonner
- Start date
Me, also.
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650s that I sometimes try to wear while taking the dog for a walk, and my phone will start/stop over and over and over again until I get mad and unplug it just to stop the annoyance (hitting "stop" in the music app doesn't do any good). The Google Voice screen will also pop up randomly, even if I'm trying very hard to keep from moving the phone (like when watching something on Hulu while laying in bed).
The only thing I can figure is that the headphone plug is making intermittent connection with the ground or mic contact in the headphone jack of the phone. The way you can cause the play/pause feature to work is by shorting the mic contact to ground for a short period of time, then returning to an open state. When you are using headphones that don't have a mic or remote (that is, they use a 3-conductor, or TRS plug) the mic contact is always shorted to ground. So in order for this to happen, the headphone has to lose contact with either ground or mic, then make contact again for a short period, then lose contact again, which fools the phone into believing that you just hit the play/pause button (then possibly causing it to think that you are continually holding the button down again after having let go or making the phone think that you quickly plugged in a different set of headphones that don't have a mic).
In order for the Google Voice search screen to pop up, the only difference is that the period of time that the mic and ground contacts were shorted -- in between the losses of contact -- lasts a little longer. You can hold the play/pause button for a couple of seconds (maybe less) on a headset with a remote to cause Google Voice to pop up normally.
Edit: sorry, didn't realize this one got posted... I meant to not post it and finish a more comprehensive post later (which you can see below), so if someone could delete this one for me, that would be great. Otherwise, I hope you all can forgive my double-post)
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650s that I sometimes try to wear while taking the dog for a walk, and my phone will start/stop over and over and over again until I get mad and unplug it just to stop the annoyance (hitting "stop" in the music app doesn't do any good). The Google Voice screen will also pop up randomly, even if I'm trying very hard to keep from moving the phone (like when watching something on Hulu while laying in bed).
The only thing I can figure is that the headphone plug is making intermittent connection with the ground or mic contact in the headphone jack of the phone. The way you can cause the play/pause feature to work is by shorting the mic contact to ground for a short period of time, then returning to an open state. When you are using headphones that don't have a mic or remote (that is, they use a 3-conductor, or TRS plug) the mic contact is always shorted to ground. So in order for this to happen, the headphone has to lose contact with either ground or mic, then make contact again for a short period, then lose contact again, which fools the phone into believing that you just hit the play/pause button (then possibly causing it to think that you are continually holding the button down again after having let go or making the phone think that you quickly plugged in a different set of headphones that don't have a mic).
In order for the Google Voice search screen to pop up, the only difference is that the period of time that the mic and ground contacts were shorted -- in between the losses of contact -- lasts a little longer. You can hold the play/pause button for a couple of seconds (maybe less) on a headset with a remote to cause Google Voice to pop up normally.
Edit: sorry, didn't realize this one got posted... I meant to not post it and finish a more comprehensive post later (which you can see below), so if someone could delete this one for me, that would be great. Otherwise, I hope you all can forgive my double-post)
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It's usually fine after I dismiss the original Google Voice interruption. Doesn't happen again.
I did notice in the car the other day while hooked up to AUX that when I moved my phone the wrong way that it would interrupt, but it doesn't do that when I'm listening to music at work.
Me, also.
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650s that I sometimes try to wear while taking the dog for a walk, and my phone will start/stop over and over and over again until I get mad and unplug it just to stop the annoyance (hitting "stop" in the music app doesn't do any good). The Google Voice screen will also pop up randomly, even if I'm trying very hard to keep from moving the phone (like when watching something on Hulu while laying in bed).
The only thing I can figure is that the headphone plug is making intermittent connection with the ground or mic contact in the headphone jack of the phone. The headphone plug can be laid out in two different ways: Tip, ring, sleeve; or tip, ring, ring, sleeve. A normal headphone plug (with no mic or remote) uses the tip for the left speaker, the ring for the right, and the sleeve for common ground of both speakers. A headset uses the tip for left audio, the first ring for right audio, and the second ring and sleeve for the mic and a common ground for both speakers and the mic (there are two different standards for whether the second ring or the sleeve is the mic or ground, but no matter which way these are laid out, shorting the two of them together produces the same result). The way you can cause the play/pause feature to work is by shorting the mic contact to ground for a short period of time, then returning to an open state. When you are using headphones that don't have a mic or remote (that is, they use a 3-conductor, or TRS plug) the mic contact is always shorted to ground. So in order for this to happen, the headphone has to lose contact with ground and/or mic, then make contact between the two again for a short period, then lose contact again, which fools the phone into believing that you just hit the play/pause button. In order for the Google Voice search screen to pop up, the only difference is that the period of time that the mic and ground contacts were shorted -- in between the losses of contact -- lasts a little longer. You can hold the play/pause button for a couple of seconds (maybe less) on a headset with a remote to cause Google Voice to pop up normally.
I have noticed, at least with my phone, that the amount of play in the headphone jack is pretty extreme. That means that just stressing the headphone plug from one angle to the opposing angle could cause this open-short-open circuit to happen. Imagine a pair of pencils on a desk with a ruler laid across them. If the plug is at an angle, only one is making contact (imagine for the sake of argument that the underscore is "making contact" and the hyphen "isn't"):
_____---------
.....O......O.....
Then, as the plug starts moving, they both make contact:
___________
.....O......O.....
This is where the phone says "Hey, they are pressing the play/pause button!" Now, the plug finally gets pushed all the way to the opposite side:
--------______
.....O......O.....
And once again you have an open circuit and this tells the phone that you "pressed and released the play/pause button." If the amount of time that the middle position was held lasted longer than a normal short click, the phone reads that as meaning that you wanted to bring up the Google Voice app. This what I believe is happening in some of our phones. When I plug in a pair of Bose in-ear headphones, I don't have any issues, because the mic and ground contacts never get shorted together unless the play/pause button is pressed AND the headphone plug is making contact with all four jack contacts, so no matter how I wiggle the plug, nothing happens.
One possible fix would be to create a short cable with a TRS jack and a TRRS plug, and never connect the second ring or the sleeve (pick one) of the jack to the sleeve of the plug (normal adapters would connect both the second ring and the sleeve of the jack to the sleeve of the plug). I'll have to order some parts to see if I can make this work, and will try to remember to get back here to report whether it works. My only worry is that not connecting the mic and ground together will cause the phone to be confused as to whether or not a TRS or TRRS jack has been plugged in. Apple devices do a series of checks to figure out what has been plugged in, and this could cause an Apple device to not output any sound to the headphone jack. I'm not sure if Android phones do a similar check, or if they simply believe the "jack sense" output of modern headphone jacks (most 1/8" [3.5mm] headphones jacks have a separate pin that gets shorted to ground [I believe] when a headphone plug is inserted into the jack to notify to the device that it should reroute sound output from the internal speaker to the headphone jack).
Edit: Please reply if you know any of what I just said to be false. I haven't gone looking for datasheets on anything, and only did a cursory glance at what the internet claims to be true about the layout of TRRS plugs via Google image search. Most of what I have said is just "the way I understand things to be", and I have been proven wrong on my assumptions about other things before.
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650s that I sometimes try to wear while taking the dog for a walk, and my phone will start/stop over and over and over again until I get mad and unplug it just to stop the annoyance (hitting "stop" in the music app doesn't do any good). The Google Voice screen will also pop up randomly, even if I'm trying very hard to keep from moving the phone (like when watching something on Hulu while laying in bed).
The only thing I can figure is that the headphone plug is making intermittent connection with the ground or mic contact in the headphone jack of the phone. The headphone plug can be laid out in two different ways: Tip, ring, sleeve; or tip, ring, ring, sleeve. A normal headphone plug (with no mic or remote) uses the tip for the left speaker, the ring for the right, and the sleeve for common ground of both speakers. A headset uses the tip for left audio, the first ring for right audio, and the second ring and sleeve for the mic and a common ground for both speakers and the mic (there are two different standards for whether the second ring or the sleeve is the mic or ground, but no matter which way these are laid out, shorting the two of them together produces the same result). The way you can cause the play/pause feature to work is by shorting the mic contact to ground for a short period of time, then returning to an open state. When you are using headphones that don't have a mic or remote (that is, they use a 3-conductor, or TRS plug) the mic contact is always shorted to ground. So in order for this to happen, the headphone has to lose contact with ground and/or mic, then make contact between the two again for a short period, then lose contact again, which fools the phone into believing that you just hit the play/pause button. In order for the Google Voice search screen to pop up, the only difference is that the period of time that the mic and ground contacts were shorted -- in between the losses of contact -- lasts a little longer. You can hold the play/pause button for a couple of seconds (maybe less) on a headset with a remote to cause Google Voice to pop up normally.
I have noticed, at least with my phone, that the amount of play in the headphone jack is pretty extreme. That means that just stressing the headphone plug from one angle to the opposing angle could cause this open-short-open circuit to happen. Imagine a pair of pencils on a desk with a ruler laid across them. If the plug is at an angle, only one is making contact (imagine for the sake of argument that the underscore is "making contact" and the hyphen "isn't"):
_____---------
.....O......O.....
Then, as the plug starts moving, they both make contact:
___________
.....O......O.....
This is where the phone says "Hey, they are pressing the play/pause button!" Now, the plug finally gets pushed all the way to the opposite side:
--------______
.....O......O.....
And once again you have an open circuit and this tells the phone that you "pressed and released the play/pause button." If the amount of time that the middle position was held lasted longer than a normal short click, the phone reads that as meaning that you wanted to bring up the Google Voice app. This what I believe is happening in some of our phones. When I plug in a pair of Bose in-ear headphones, I don't have any issues, because the mic and ground contacts never get shorted together unless the play/pause button is pressed AND the headphone plug is making contact with all four jack contacts, so no matter how I wiggle the plug, nothing happens.
One possible fix would be to create a short cable with a TRS jack and a TRRS plug, and never connect the second ring or the sleeve (pick one) of the jack to the sleeve of the plug (normal adapters would connect both the second ring and the sleeve of the jack to the sleeve of the plug). I'll have to order some parts to see if I can make this work, and will try to remember to get back here to report whether it works. My only worry is that not connecting the mic and ground together will cause the phone to be confused as to whether or not a TRS or TRRS jack has been plugged in. Apple devices do a series of checks to figure out what has been plugged in, and this could cause an Apple device to not output any sound to the headphone jack. I'm not sure if Android phones do a similar check, or if they simply believe the "jack sense" output of modern headphone jacks (most 1/8" [3.5mm] headphones jacks have a separate pin that gets shorted to ground [I believe] when a headphone plug is inserted into the jack to notify to the device that it should reroute sound output from the internal speaker to the headphone jack).
Edit: Please reply if you know any of what I just said to be false. I haven't gone looking for datasheets on anything, and only did a cursory glance at what the internet claims to be true about the layout of TRRS plugs via Google image search. Most of what I have said is just "the way I understand things to be", and I have been proven wrong on my assumptions about other things before.
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Me, also.
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650s that I sometimes try to wear while taking the dog for a walk, and my phone will start/stop over and over and over again until I get mad and unplug it just to stop the annoyance (hitting "stop" in the music app doesn't do any good). The Google Voice screen will also pop up randomly, even if I'm trying very hard to keep from moving the phone (like when watching something on Hulu while laying in bed).
The only thing I can figure is that the headphone plug is making intermittent connection with the ground or mic contact in the headphone jack of the phone. The headphone plug can be laid out in two different ways: Tip, ring, sleeve; or tip, ring, ring, sleeve. A normal headphone plug (with no mic or remote) uses the tip for the left speaker, the ring for the right, and the sleeve for common ground of both speakers. A headset uses the tip for left audio, the first ring for right audio, and the second ring and sleeve for the mic and a common ground for both speakers and the mic (there are two different standards for whether the second ring or the sleeve is the mic or ground, but no matter which way these are laid out, shorting the two of them together produces the same result). The way you can cause the play/pause feature to work is by shorting the mic contact to ground for a short period of time, then returning to an open state. When you are using headphones that don't have a mic or remote (that is, they use a 3-conductor, or TRS plug) the mic contact is always shorted to ground. So in order for this to happen, the headphone has to lose contact with ground and/or mic, then make contact between the two again for a short period, then lose contact again, which fools the phone into believing that you just hit the play/pause button. In order for the Google Voice search screen to pop up, the only difference is that the period of time that the mic and ground contacts were shorted -- in between the losses of contact -- lasts a little longer. You can hold the play/pause button for a couple of seconds (maybe less) on a headset with a remote to cause Google Voice to pop up normally.
I have noticed, at least with my phone, that the amount of play in the headphone jack is pretty extreme. That means that just stressing the headphone plug from one angle to the opposing angle could cause this open-short-open circuit to happen. Imagine a pair of pencils on a desk with a ruler laid across them. If the plug is at an angle, only one is making contact (imagine for the sake of argument that the underscore is "making contact" and the hyphen "isn't"):
_____---------
.....O......O.....
Then, as the plug starts moving, they both make contact:
___________
.....O......O.....
This is where the phone says "Hey, they are pressing the play/pause button!" Now, the plug finally gets pushed all the way to the opposite side:
--------______
.....O......O.....
And once again you have an open circuit and this tells the phone that you "pressed and released the play/pause button." If the amount of time that the middle position was held lasted longer than a normal short click, the phone reads that as meaning that you wanted to bring up the Google Voice app. This what I believe is happening in some of our phones. When I plug in a pair of Bose in-ear headphones, I don't have any issues, because the mic and ground contacts never get shorted together unless the play/pause button is pressed AND the headphone plug is making contact with all four jack contacts, so no matter how I wiggle the plug, nothing happens.
One possible fix would be to create a short cable with a TRS jack and a TRRS plug, and never connect the second ring or the sleeve (pick one) of the jack to the sleeve of the plug (normal adapters would connect both the second ring and the sleeve of the jack to the sleeve of the plug). I'll have to order some parts to see if I can make this work, and will try to remember to get back here to report whether it works. My only worry is that not connecting the mic and ground together will cause the phone to be confused as to whether or not a TRS or TRRS jack has been plugged in. Apple devices do a series of checks to figure out what has been plugged in, and this could cause an Apple device to not output any sound to the headphone jack. I'm not sure if Android phones do a similar check, or if they simply believe the "jack sense" output of modern headphone jacks (most 1/8" [3.5mm] headphones jacks have a separate pin that gets shorted to ground [I believe] when a headphone plug is inserted into the jack to notify to the device that it should reroute sound output from the internal speaker to the headphone jack).
Edit: Please reply if you know any of what I just said to be false. I haven't gone looking for datasheets on anything, and only did a cursory glance at what the internet claims to be true about the layout of TRRS plugs via Google image search. Most of what I have said is just "the way I understand things to be", and I have been proven wrong on my assumptions about other things before.
I read a little bit about this in the Reddit posts I linked WAAAAY ABOVE. I bet that is the issue. Is the TRS male to TRRS female not something that exists already?
Yes, there already exist adapters to go from TRS to TRRS, but they connect the "RS" of the TRRS plug to the "S" of the TRS jack, and if the issue involves contacts of the TRRS jack of the phone losing contact with the "S" of the TRS or the "RS" of the TRRS plug, then the same issue will continue. If you were to make sure that either the second "R" or the "S" of the TRRS plug is NOT connected to the "S" of the TRS jack, then that would prevent the issue. My only fear is that the phone checks whether there is a TRS or TRRS plug inserted, and if it does, then this might confuse the phone.
I have the same issue with my hd 700's. Every time I plug my headphones in I get that google prompt. My guess is the Jack is touching something inside the phone is causing this. This is my second v10 as my first one the headphone jack got messed up because I didn't buy the adapter for the 1/4 to 3.5mm and the weight of the jacks completely messed up the phone. I couldn't move a centimeter without that google prompt showing up. I still have this issue with my second v10 but it has drastically reduced the prompt now that I use this adapter.
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Sorry if you tried this. Only way I could replicate was saying "ok google" after enabling it for wired headsets in google now . I'm coming from a Nexus 6 and that "ok google" voice command is very sensitive. On the Nexus you can have the phone always listening for it even while the screen is locked and off. I've had it triggered listening to music, podcasts, talking to people without ever saying "Ok Google". You can turn this off by holding down the home button and swiping up, then hit the hamburger menu in the upper left corner, settings, voice, hands free it will give you an option to toggle detection over blue tooth and or wired headsets. Or just turn the detection completely off.
I've had everything even remotely related to "Ok Google" or "Google Now" turned off since I bought the phone, but it still pops up whenever my headphones are plugged in. Not only is there a hardware issue with the headphone jack, but there is a software issue whereby the Google voice search CANNOT BE DISABLED. You can prevent it from popping up when the phone is locked, but you can't turn it off for when the phone screen is on. There is simply no option to disable Google voice search completely.
So, our only hope is that some inline adapter can be used to prevent this issue in hardware. I have a Digi-key order on the way, so I might be able to get something put together over the weekend.
So, our only hope is that some inline adapter can be used to prevent this issue in hardware. I have a Digi-key order on the way, so I might be able to get something put together over the weekend.
That "OK Google" thing never worked right for me. No matter how clearly or loudly I spoke/yelled at my phone. People would stare at me like I was some lunatic yelling at my phone. Mine too did pop up a couple times when I plugged in my headphones, not every time though... so that was the last straw. It was one of the first things I defeated when I got my phone.
Settings => Language & Input => Google voice typing => "OK Google" detection
From there, slide the "From the Google app" toggle to the OFF position.
It hasn't bothered me in almost 2 months now.
Settings => Language & Input => Google voice typing => "OK Google" detection
From there, slide the "From the Google app" toggle to the OFF position.
It hasn't bothered me in almost 2 months now.
I have nothing new to add to this thread, only that I have this same problem every time I plug in headphones. Bought mine less than a month ago.
Success!! (as far as I can tell, anyway)
I ordered some parts from Digi-key (an online electronics supplier):
Tensility International Corp 10-00341
Switchcraft Inc. 35LJNS (There is also a gold-plated part, P/N 35LJNAUS, but it was almost $4.50 more)
I would have posted the links to the actual web pages on Digikey's site, but I don't have enough posts, so you can search for those part numbers if you choose to do this yourself. You can also look for similar parts or build the cable assembly yourself from scratch. I went for "decent quality" and "easy".
I found through experimentation that the LG V10 utilizes the CTIA pinout order for 4-conductor headsets (there is also an OMTP standard that transposes the Ground and Microphone contacts that is used by some other phones/companies). This means that the V10 expects the Tip to be Left+, the first Ring to be Right+, the second Ring to be Ground (Left-, Right-, and Mic-), and the Sleeve to be Mic+. So, I connected the cable assembly's red wire to the tip contact, the white wire to the ring contact, and the green wire to the shield/ground/sleeve contact. The black wire I just cut off and didn't use, and the shielding from the cable was also just cut off so that it wouldn't make contact with anything (I made sure that the shielding wasn't connected to any of the plug's contacts before I did this... I did some reading online that told me not to connect the shielding to signal ground in audio cables).
So, with a little hair pulling, a flux pen, some solder, and a soldering iron you can make your own hardware fix for this issue. Or LG could buy some headphone jacks that aren't crap.
I also bought a second set of cable assembly/3.5mm jack so that I can play with building my own custom cable that has an Android-compatible remote on a short wire (that way I can add a remote to a normal pair of headphones, and the short wire would allow me to run a line for the remote from my pocket (where my phone generally lives) up to a lapel clip. The remotes that Android phones use introduce a specific resistance across the Mic and Ground contacts, so adding a couple of resistors (one for Vol+ and one for Vol-) and a button for play/pause/next/prev on a small circuit board should give me all the control I am used to getting from my Bose in-ear sport headphones that I use with my iPod Touch at the gym.
I ordered some parts from Digi-key (an online electronics supplier):
Tensility International Corp 10-00341
Switchcraft Inc. 35LJNS (There is also a gold-plated part, P/N 35LJNAUS, but it was almost $4.50 more)
I would have posted the links to the actual web pages on Digikey's site, but I don't have enough posts, so you can search for those part numbers if you choose to do this yourself. You can also look for similar parts or build the cable assembly yourself from scratch. I went for "decent quality" and "easy".
I found through experimentation that the LG V10 utilizes the CTIA pinout order for 4-conductor headsets (there is also an OMTP standard that transposes the Ground and Microphone contacts that is used by some other phones/companies). This means that the V10 expects the Tip to be Left+, the first Ring to be Right+, the second Ring to be Ground (Left-, Right-, and Mic-), and the Sleeve to be Mic+. So, I connected the cable assembly's red wire to the tip contact, the white wire to the ring contact, and the green wire to the shield/ground/sleeve contact. The black wire I just cut off and didn't use, and the shielding from the cable was also just cut off so that it wouldn't make contact with anything (I made sure that the shielding wasn't connected to any of the plug's contacts before I did this... I did some reading online that told me not to connect the shielding to signal ground in audio cables).
So, with a little hair pulling, a flux pen, some solder, and a soldering iron you can make your own hardware fix for this issue. Or LG could buy some headphone jacks that aren't crap.
I also bought a second set of cable assembly/3.5mm jack so that I can play with building my own custom cable that has an Android-compatible remote on a short wire (that way I can add a remote to a normal pair of headphones, and the short wire would allow me to run a line for the remote from my pocket (where my phone generally lives) up to a lapel clip. The remotes that Android phones use introduce a specific resistance across the Mic and Ground contacts, so adding a couple of resistors (one for Vol+ and one for Vol-) and a button for play/pause/next/prev on a small circuit board should give me all the control I am used to getting from my Bose in-ear sport headphones that I use with my iPod Touch at the gym.
You re CORRECT sir... the steps I outlined above most definitely do not work. I think I am tricking my V10 into working because the mic/volume-cabled headphones I own are for iOS (being a recent convert). So I think the V10 sees an iOS cable just like a simple TRS connector headphone without vol module although the mic still works fine which for me is really the important part. I am willing to bet proper android cabled headphones will have this problem for me as well. I was at Frys yesterday and I plugged in the Sennheiser momentum headphone demo board and the annoying "OK Google" thing kept popping up at random.
So, could I purchase this item and get the same results? It seems all that needs accomplished is the reversal of the GND and MIC wires.
Amazon.com: Honsky Universal CTIA to OMTP 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Earphone Adapter Cable - Red: Cell Phones & Accessories
Thanks for your post!!!!!
Edit, it seems that this is a bad product, based on the reviews. However, if it does what it says is that what we need?
Unfortunately, that wouldn't solve the problem. What our problem is is that the headphones we are using cause the GND and MIC wires to be shorted together (this is normal, and a phone should be able to deal with this without any trouble) and that the headphone jack allows the plug to wiggle, causing the GND or MIC (or both) contacts to lose contact with the headphone plug. This causes the phone to think that we are using a headset (instead of plain old headphones) and that we have been pressing the play/pause button intermittently. The "adapter" I created only does one thing: it prevents the MIC contact from ever being connected to anything. That is why I didn't attach the black wire in the photo to anything.
If you could somehow open that adapter up and snip the correct wire, it may work, but it would ONLY work with a standard pair of headphones, not a phone headset with the mic and remote. You could also snip the correct wire in a standard 3.5mm stereo headphone (3 conductor) to 3.5mm stereo headset (4 conductor) adapter, but trying to open up one of those short cables, identifying the correct wire, and snipping it so that it doesn't ever make contact without messing up the other tiny wires inside would be more work than building a new cable from scratch.
What that product you linked to does is adapt a phone headset for, say, an international model Nokia phone so that it would work with the LG V10. It wasn't built to adapt a normal pair of headphones to a cell phone. I have seen products that do add a remote and microphone to a regular pair of headphones, but the remote ends up too close to the phone to be useful and to use the mic, you have to clip a wad of the 3' to 6' of cable your headphones came with to your lapel where the mic is. That is why I would like to put a short adapter cable next to the phone, then run a separate wire up to the lapel for a remote and possibly a mic. I'm going to see if I can design a little board with three buttons , some resistors, and a mic on it that could be put inside a 3D printed case. Then I could attach that to my current version of this LG V10 "fix" and it would also be useful for other people who have perfectly working set of phone/headphones to which they would like to add a mic/remote. Even though those remote/mic adapter cables aren't designed to be useful, they would actually fix the problems many here are having with normal pairs of headphones.
You could look for these search terms on Amazon:
Scosche control adapter for ipod
Griffin control headphone adapter for ipod
Monster iSoniTalk Microphone Headphone Adapter for iPhone
They are all listed to work for iPod Touch or iPhone, but they would at least work to fix this issue with the LG V10. The only issue you would have with their 'features' would be that the volume control buttons won't work with any Android phones (Apple uses some proprietary digital communications protocol for their volume controls, where Android shorts the MIC and GND contacts through different values of resistors to change the volume or 0 ohms to signal play/pause/voice search). If you can find one that is built for Android phones, that would be a better choice, but it was hard for me to even find these adapters for use with the iPhone.
If you could somehow open that adapter up and snip the correct wire, it may work, but it would ONLY work with a standard pair of headphones, not a phone headset with the mic and remote. You could also snip the correct wire in a standard 3.5mm stereo headphone (3 conductor) to 3.5mm stereo headset (4 conductor) adapter, but trying to open up one of those short cables, identifying the correct wire, and snipping it so that it doesn't ever make contact without messing up the other tiny wires inside would be more work than building a new cable from scratch.
What that product you linked to does is adapt a phone headset for, say, an international model Nokia phone so that it would work with the LG V10. It wasn't built to adapt a normal pair of headphones to a cell phone. I have seen products that do add a remote and microphone to a regular pair of headphones, but the remote ends up too close to the phone to be useful and to use the mic, you have to clip a wad of the 3' to 6' of cable your headphones came with to your lapel where the mic is. That is why I would like to put a short adapter cable next to the phone, then run a separate wire up to the lapel for a remote and possibly a mic. I'm going to see if I can design a little board with three buttons , some resistors, and a mic on it that could be put inside a 3D printed case. Then I could attach that to my current version of this LG V10 "fix" and it would also be useful for other people who have perfectly working set of phone/headphones to which they would like to add a mic/remote. Even though those remote/mic adapter cables aren't designed to be useful, they would actually fix the problems many here are having with normal pairs of headphones.
You could look for these search terms on Amazon:
Scosche control adapter for ipod
Griffin control headphone adapter for ipod
Monster iSoniTalk Microphone Headphone Adapter for iPhone
They are all listed to work for iPod Touch or iPhone, but they would at least work to fix this issue with the LG V10. The only issue you would have with their 'features' would be that the volume control buttons won't work with any Android phones (Apple uses some proprietary digital communications protocol for their volume controls, where Android shorts the MIC and GND contacts through different values of resistors to change the volume or 0 ohms to signal play/pause/voice search). If you can find one that is built for Android phones, that would be a better choice, but it was hard for me to even find these adapters for use with the iPhone.
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So, with a little it of testing and prototyping, I managed to put together a neat Headphones-to-Headset adapter that is compatible with most Android phones. I put another cable together basically the same way, but instead of leaving the black wire disconnected, I ran it and another wire from the GND terminal to a breadboard. On the breadboard I placed a small condenser mic, a few resistors, and three momentary pushbuttons. This gave me the ability to hit play/pause/next track/prev track/Google Voice Assist, Vol+, and Vol-, and I was able to voice dial my phone, have a conversation using the mic on the breadboard and my Sennheiser HD 650s, and listen to and control music using the Tidal streaming music app.
Unfortunately, when I tried to create a soldered version of the remote/mic I ended up shaving a bit of insulator off the wire and by the time I had tried to fix it everything was completely trashed. So, I have ordered a few sets of new parts so I can try to put together a working prototype. If I can I'll have a really nice, high-quality headset adapter for my Sennheiser HD 650 headphones that I might be able to get worked into a small product run. A side effect of using this type of adapter would be that the problems we have all been having would also be fixed. I'd just have to figure out how to design a small PCB and a plastic case for it to live in.
Unfortunately, when I tried to create a soldered version of the remote/mic I ended up shaving a bit of insulator off the wire and by the time I had tried to fix it everything was completely trashed. So, I have ordered a few sets of new parts so I can try to put together a working prototype. If I can I'll have a really nice, high-quality headset adapter for my Sennheiser HD 650 headphones that I might be able to get worked into a small product run. A side effect of using this type of adapter would be that the problems we have all been having would also be fixed. I'd just have to figure out how to design a small PCB and a plastic case for it to live in.
It seems like ill have days that go by without the Google voice search thing popping up, and then days where every time i plug headphones or my cars aux cable in the Google voice search thing will pop up. It seems very hit or miss.
HNNNNNGHHH
Well-known member
The only real solution I can see is sticking with audio hardware whose male plug connectors use 4 conductors instead of 3 sadly. Kinda interesting really how this was present as far as I know since the G3 but was never really fixed.
Posted via the Android Central App
Posted via the Android Central App
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