I made an unexpected visit to a local Bell store and finally got to try an S21 Ultra in the flesh. The good thing is that minus the camera experience, I found no reason to want to upgrade from my Note 10+. 120Hz did not feel like anything substantially better than my 60 Hz display, and I didn't experience any other-worldly improvement with the 240 Hz touch-sampling, either.
I'm glad I didn't let the hype spring me into ordering one after getting caught up in it. I still think the camera will be much better, but I can't justify the trade-off with all the features I would lose.
I also got to play around with the S21 and S21+ as well as the S20 FE. Surprisingly, I found the S20 FE's display to render text better than it's newer cousins. The text was both darker and crisper on the older model.