I easily replaced HTC's sense UI with the stock Android 2.3 Launcher by downloading a free app in the marketplace called "Gingerbread Launcher" (the one by MoDaCo ripped out of gingerbread for 2.2), and force killing "HTC Sense". When I hit the home button it asked me which launcher I wanted to use, I chose "Launcher" and told it to remember it. Working flawlessly on my thunderbolt. You can do folders and everything.
I also tried "better keyboard" and downloaded the gingerbread keyboard skin. Also works great (and is a much better keyboard). Now it would be hard to tell my phone isn't running gingerbread.
I also tried "better keyboard" and downloaded the gingerbread keyboard skin. Also works great (and is a much better keyboard). Now it would be hard to tell my phone isn't running gingerbread.